Breakouts are more than just a clogged pore; acne is a complex inflammatory condition of the pilosebaceous unit driven by multiple biological processes.
It typically begins with an overproduction of sebum (the skin’s natural oil). When excess sebum combines with dead skin cells, it can form a plug within the hair follicle — a process known as follicular hyperkeratinisation.
This congested environment allows the naturally occurring bacterium Cutibacterium acnes to proliferate. However, modern research suggests acne is not simply caused by the presence of this bacterium, but by changes in the balance of the skin’s microbiome. When certain strains of C. acnes dominate, they can trigger inflammatory responses within the skin.
Hormones also play an important role. The enzyme 5-alpha reductase converts testosterone into the more potent androgen dihydrotestosterone (DHT), which stimulates sebaceous glands to produce more oil. Increased sebum production can further contribute to follicular congestion and inflammation.